Yes, sometimes MTM suits don't fit well. How is that possible when you've taken care to provide accurate measurements?

For starters, it is important to determine where the error is, not so that you can point a finger at somebody, but more importantly in order to arrive at the correct solution to either alter the suit in question, or order a new suit.

Most often, a salesperson will assume whose fault it is, and not actually check to be sure. This is a very dangerous practice. There is a saying that when you point the finger at somebody, there are still 3 fingers pointing back to you. Don't assume.

Let's say that you ordered a suit with a point to point measurement of 19 1/2", and that when the garment arrives and the customer tries it on, it looks tight in the shoulders. Many salespeople will just go to the order and write 20" as a note for the next order without even checking to see whether they actually got 19 1/2" on this order. It's quite possible that you may have received 19", and in fact 19 1/2" would have been perfect. If you order the new suit with a point to point of 20, and the factory delivers a little on the large side, even within acceptable tolerance, you might end up with 20 1/4", which is 3/4" larger than what you really wanted.

There's really no way of getting around manufacturing tolerance. MTM garments are made by people, even if the cloth is cut by laser, so there's always going to be some of it, and that's perfectly acceptable. However, it's crucial to determine whether any inaccuracies are a result of tolerance or negligence so that you get it right the next time. That starts with measuring the garment you received properly.

When measuring a garment, certain measurements, like the point to point, half back and coat length, are best taken with the garment on a person or a mannequin. Even if the person isn't the actual person the garment was made for, you'll get a more accurate measurement than you will if you measure with the garment on a surface or a hanger. Some other measurements, however, are best taken with the garment on a flat surface.

We've taken care of those decisions for you. The following two topics in this section give you precise instructions for how to check the finished measurements of a jacket and of a pant. By following those instructions, you should be able to measure garments more consistently, and also be able to answer any concerns the manufacturer may have with the method you are using to determine whether the measurement errors are yours or theirs.

Regardless of whose fault the misfit garment is, you have two choices:  alter the suit, or make the customer a new one. If the problem was theirs you should use good judgment when considering to send a suit back to the manufacturer. Remember, you need them and they need you. There are very few good manufacturers AND tape men left.

Avoid sending garments back for simple alterations like sleeve length, when you have the ability to have the garment altered yourself. The less you make your vendor do re-cuts at their expense, the more likely you are to get a more favorable reply when you need a rush job for your best customer. The squeaky wheel does get the oil, but nobody likes a squeaky wheel. Ask for oil only when you need it.

Having said that, when you are justified in asking for a re-cut at their expense, if you can show them that you took care to measure the garment against the order thoroughly before sending it back, they will usually respond well. Rest assured that they'll measure it when they get it back, so you might as well do the same before you complain. You may be surprised at what you learn when you do.