When you're determining the finished coat waist, it's more important to observe the customer's stomach
measurement than his pant waist measurement.
There is also another measurement that must be taken into consideration: the SEAT measurement.
A person with a larger-than-average seat will require a little more ease added to
the coat waist, so that when the jacket is buttoned it won't be tight at the back.
Similarly, a person with a smaller seat will require less ease added to the coat waist, as otherwise the
jacket will appear too large in the front since his body isn't filling up the back of the coat as much.
We have provided a chart that explains how we determine
the best finished half waist for the customer based on comparing his
actual body measurements to the average measurements expected for a man today,
based on the anthropometric studies conducted in the past, and from the studies
we have conducted using the data from the thousands of customers measured using
The Fitter™ measuring device to date.
| SIZE |
34 |
35 |
36 |
37 |
38 |
39 |
40 |
41 |
42 |
43 |
44 |
45 |
46 |
47 |
| Chest |
34 |
35 |
36 |
37 |
38 |
39 |
40 |
41 |
42 |
43 |
44 |
45 |
46 |
47 |
| Stomach |
30 |
31 |
32 |
33 |
34 |
35 |
36 |
37 |
38 |
39 |
40 |
41 |
42 |
43 |
| Pantwaist |
28 |
29 |
30 |
31 |
32 |
33 |
34 |
35 |
36 |
37 |
38 |
39 |
40 |
41 |
| Seat |
34 |
35 |
36 |
37 |
38 |
39 |
40 |
41 |
42 |
43 |
44 |
45 |
46 |
47 |
| Halfwaist |
18.5 |
19 |
19.5 |
20 |
20.5 |
21 |
21.5 |
22 |
22.5 |
23 |
23.5 |
24 |
24.5 |
25 |
| SIZE |
48 |
49 |
50 |
51 |
52 |
53 |
54 |
55 |
56 |
57 |
58 |
59 |
60 |
|
| Chest |
48 |
49 |
50 |
51 |
52 |
53 |
54 |
55 |
56 |
57 |
58 |
59 |
60 |
|
| Stomach |
44 |
45 |
46 |
47 |
48 |
49 |
50 |
51 |
52 |
53 |
54 |
55 |
56 |
|
| Pantwaist |
42 |
43 |
44 |
45 |
46 |
47 |
48 |
49 |
50 |
51 |
52 |
53 |
54 |
|
| Seat |
48 |
49 |
50 |
51 |
52 |
53 |
54 |
55 |
56 |
57 |
58 |
59 |
60 |
|
| Halfwaist |
25.5 |
26 |
26.5 |
27 |
27.5 |
28 |
28.5 |
29 |
29.5 |
30 |
30.5 |
31 |
31.5 |
|
Above are two examples which demonstrate how we calculate the required
finished half waist based on body measurements.
The highlighted numbers near the top are an example of a person with
measurements that are exactly standard for a size 40.
The highlighted numbers nearer the bottom demonstrate a person with measurements
that are all standard for a size 50, except that their stomach is two inches larger than standard.
The system then finds a halfway point between the STOMACH and SEAT measurements and uses that
point to determine the half waist.
Below are two more examples demonstrating this method.
| SIZE |
34 |
35 |
36 |
37 |
38 |
39 |
40 |
41 |
42 |
43 |
44 |
45 |
46 |
47 |
| Chest |
34 |
35 |
36 |
37 |
38 |
39 |
40 |
41 |
42 |
43 |
44 |
45 |
46 |
47 |
| Stomach |
30 |
31 |
32 |
33 |
34 |
35 |
36 |
37 |
38 |
39 |
40 |
41 |
42 |
43 |
| Pantwaist |
28 |
29 |
30 |
31 |
32 |
33 |
34 |
35 |
36 |
37 |
38 |
39 |
40 |
41 |
| Seat |
34 |
35 |
36 |
37 |
38 |
39 |
40 |
41 |
42 |
43 |
44 |
45 |
46 |
47 |
| Halfwaist |
18.5 |
19 |
19.5 |
20 |
20.5 |
21 |
21.5 |
22 |
22.5 |
23 |
23.5 |
24 |
24.5 |
25 |
| SIZE |
48 |
49 |
50 |
51 |
52 |
53 |
54 |
55 |
56 |
57 |
58 |
59 |
60 |
|
| Chest |
48 |
49 |
50 |
51 |
52 |
53 |
54 |
55 |
56 |
57 |
58 |
59 |
60 |
|
| Stomach |
44 |
45 |
46 |
47 |
48 |
49 |
50 |
51 |
52 |
53 |
54 |
55 |
56 |
|
| Pantwaist |
42 |
43 |
44 |
45 |
46 |
47 |
48 |
49 |
50 |
51 |
52 |
53 |
54 |
|
| Seat |
48 |
49 |
50 |
51 |
52 |
53 |
54 |
55 |
56 |
57 |
58 |
59 |
60 |
|
| Halfwaist |
25.5 |
26 |
26.5 |
27 |
27.5 |
28 |
28.5 |
29 |
29.5 |
30 |
30.5 |
31 |
31.5 |
|
The example near the top demonstrates that
even though the customer's stomach measurement is two inches larger than the
standard, his seat measurement is also two inches smaller than the standard,
resulting in a half waist that would be the same as the first size 40
example.
The example on the bottom shows that although the customer's stomach measurement is two inches larger than
the first size 50 example, the seat measurement is the same, so the halfway
point between the stomach and the seat only resulted in a 1/2" increase to the
half waist (1" total waist increase).
In both of these examples, the patterns would also have to be adjusted to
distribute more to the front panels, and take away some from the back,
but we won't get into that detail at this time.
A note about "drop"
The term "drop" usually refers to the difference between the chest and the pant waist, e.g. for a 44 jacket, drop 7 gives a 37 pant. Unfortunately, however, it's sometimes used for the difference between the chest and the coat waist. We at The Fitter™ use the term "jacket drop" for that, but only when we have to: we encourage you to limit your use of the term "drop" to its usual meaning. We recommend that you always express the coat waist by the half waist, not the jacket drop.
