
A customer's posture may require that significant alterations be made to a ready-to-wear garment,
significant enough that Made-to-Measure would serve the customer better.
The only accurate way to determine a customer's posture is to measure it.
A skilled person can do this with a yardstick and tape measure, and then based on experience draw the appropriate conclusions.
Or anyone can do it with The Fitter system
(which was developed by the creators of this website), which both provides the measuring device and determines the posture.
If you have neither the skill nor The Fitter, you can still assess a customer's posture, by
having him stand against an upright flat surface that allows you to have a side view (this is how we do it in The Fitter).
A door that's partly open is one such surface.
Any variances from normal become easily visible, and although they can be measured accurately you won't be doing any measuring here.
The following illustrations will help you determine which of the posture types apply to your customer,
in order to assist you in deciding between Made-to-Measure and off-the-rack
for the customer.
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Normal
The majority of people have this posture. Unless they have a drastic difference between their chest and waist measurements, and/or they have challenging shoulders, this customer can usually wear clothing well off-the-rack.
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Erect
This is the 2nd most common posture type. This customer's jacket will usually look snug at the seat, and loose at the front, sometimes causing the fronts to come close or touch at the bottom. Many short and/or slim people have this posture.
Observe whether their head and neck seem closer to the flat surface than normal.
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Head Forward
This posture can look a lot like Normal. The difference here is that their head is away the same distance as the neck (or more) from the flat surface. You will usually see the collar of a jacket sitting away from their shirt at the neck, requiring that the collar be taken in (made smaller).
Head Forward can be thought of as a lesser degree of Stooping Posture. |
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Round Back
This posture is found on people who stand fairly normal, however they will have a large round back in the shoulder blade area. Typically, a jacket will look shorter than usual in the back than it does in the front.
Unlike Head Forward Posture, their head will be closer to the flat surface than their neck. In other words, their head does not tend to be in a more forward position.
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Stooping
This posture can look similar to Round Back. The difference here is that the customer's head is in a more forward direction. A jacket will not only look shorter in the back, but it will often also look tight at the front and "kick out" at the back.
As mentioned earlier, if you are not sure if a person is Stooping, it's likely that they're just Head Forward.
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Sway Back
This posture is often seen in combination with Stooping. The difference here is that their hips and seat are sitting more forward. It is much easier to see a Sway Back posture when the customer is standing against a flat surface, because their seat will not be touching at the same time as their shoulder blades.
The garment will appear loose at the back, even though it may seem snug at the front.
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Normal Shoulders
This is the most common shoulder scenario. Basically, you're looking for the difference between the top of the shoulder, right up against the neck, and the end of the shoulder (the most outward part that would be supporting the suit's shoulder pad).
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High Shoulders
This is a very common shoulder scenario. Here the difference between the top of the shoulder, right up against the neck, and the end of the shoulder will be less than normal, creating a more straight across appearance.
The most common symptom of this with a jacket on is that you will see a "roll" of gathered material under the collar.
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Sloping Shoulders
This is the least common shoulder scenario. It is often found with athletes, since their muscles at the top of the shoulder ("traps") are usually built up more than normal.
The most common symptom of this with a jacket on is that you will see folded material under the arm pit at the front and/or back.
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Back: Sizes, Body Measurements and Finished Measurements
Next: What is the Overarm Phenomenon?
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