If you were to look at how various tailors go about measuring a customer for a MTM suit, you'd likely see different techniques for certain measurements. For example, some tailors measure the customer's chest while standing in front of him, while others prefer to stand behind the customer. Neither way is incorrect, as long as there is attention given to ensuring that the tape is kept parallel to the floor, and is over the largest part of the customer's chest and back.

Regardless of the technique used for the individual measurements, there are two commonly used methods for measuring a customer:

1. Taking body measurements, and
2. Using try-on garments to observe the required alterations.

It's not uncommon to use both methods for the same customer.

In traditional custom tailoring, not often done today, a garment is made "from the ground up" for a specific customer, with a master tailor involved from the time the measurements are taken, right through the process of multiple fittings, to the delivery of the garment to the customer.

Today, the most common method is to take the customer's body measurements using a tape measure (and in some cases additional tools for measuring posture), to determine what pattern sizes and alterations are required. The adjustments are then performed to the "master garment pattern", from which the garment is then made.

With this method, however, taking good measurements is only half of the job. An expert must then review the body measurements and determine the amount of "ease" to add to arrive at the finished pattern measurements that would best fit the customer. Usually, this expertise is found at the factory receiving the order, and most of the decisions are made without any correspondence with the person who actually took the measurements.

The second way of measuring a customer for MTM is to have the customer try on a jacket in a size that matches his chest measurement, and note what alterations would need to be made. These alterations are written on the order form. The factory applies the alterations to their pattern for that model and size, and then makes a jacket from the revised pattern.

When using a try-on, you should look only for obvious faults in the fit. If the fault isn't obvious, it probably means that the customer doesn't really need the alteration. You shouldn't be looking for the 1/8 of an inch that nobody will see when the customer decides to breathe again in front of the mirror.

This approach can't always be used properly, since you won't always have a try-on jacket in the right size. In that case you'll have to use a different size or model and do the best you can. Also, some of the alterations needed might be so major that it's hard to tell exactly how much adjustment is required.

Both ways require some expertise, for instance to determine whether the customer has erect posture, and if so how much. Consequently, traditionally only those trained by an experienced person have been able to measure for MTM, regardless of the method. Today however there are computerized systems that will take body measurements and then determine what alterations from the stock pattern are needed, such as The Fitter™ which incorporates all the expertise found on this site and much more.

If you don't have such a system, the following is a good guideline to work by:

• If the customer appears to be a challenging fit, take as many body measurements as you can, and make note of obvious challenges in their posture. The factory should then be able to make decisions from that information that will result in a garment that will fit well.
• If the customer tells you that he normally doesn't have too much trouble fitting off the rack, use a try-on garment, but be sure to take finished measurements for details like point to point, half waist, coat length and sleeve length, so that there is no question about the final measurement you want for the customer. You can take the finished measurements after the customer leaves if you are not comfortable doing it while he's standing there.